Clear coating to seal a rust patina finish on metal
Clear dust and rust flakes from the surface using water, cloth and wire brush. A paint thinner or baking soda/water combination will also work. Allow the object/surface to dry thoroughly before sealing the rust, to prevent further corrosion. Apply as much clear coat needed to seal the rust. Everbrite will darken the metal 5 to 10 shades. Water will replicate what the metal will look like coated. The clear formula of Everbrite can be glossy on rusted or on dark colored metals. Once it is coated, the metal will look like it does when it is wet.
World's 1 finishing resource since No login needed: Chime right in. Great thread. I have used this information to create my finish on both bare metal hot rolled and rusted train track. Prepare surface. Brush on one coat of Penetrol [affil. After that, I spray with a oil based clear satin. This is a great indoor finish. I'm wondering if anyone has tried a water based poly as a second coat instead of the oil based clear? My fear is that it won't adhere to the Penetrol. Any help would be welcomed.
We are a small custom metal shop that has a rust finish on some of our items. The problem is that we are having a difficult time sealing the rust finish, typically on the towel bars and towel rings where they are exposed to moisture. Is there an affordable product that can stop the rusting and seal it? Or, is there a paint finish other than powder coating that is available? Have tried everything from poly to Tung Oil how to order a white pages phone book. Please help!
A good polyurethane should do the trick. I would usually recommend an acrylic base coat followed by a urethane. Contact me if you would like more information. I am a PM and have project with a situation and was looking for any information I could find on clear coat. Now that the metal is in place some of the finish is coming off and taking the rust with it rusted look was the desire Is there a product that we can put over the lacquer that will stand up to abuse prefer clear coat or do we have to take off the lacquer before we can put anything else on it.
I have the same interest as Ed in clear coating over a rusted surface. In my case it is for steel sculpture, as I do fairly large pieces for indoor and outdoor use. Many times I want to keep the rusty look. Any suggestions? Like Ken and Ed I am interested in an exterior clear coat that will work on rusted metal. We are expanding our signage to include etched and distressed metals and need a durable clear for exterior use. I think that you can use proprietary polyurethane paint or spray.
Some of them contains rust inhibitors Krylon spray. Good luck! I have been using the same approach to accelerate rust and have been experiencing the rust peel you describe. It is my belief that the acid causes the rust to happen too fast. I suggest you experiment a little with vinegar. That seems to work fairly well and quickly.
Also be aware that the texture is different than with the acid. If any one knows of a clear surface film finish that could be used over rusted metal I'd really like some feed back on this. I know that you could use Linseed Oil [affil. I am trying to find a way to clear coat artificial patina without creating bubbles in the clear coat. I am guessing that the chemicals are gassing beneath the surface. Is there a way to neutralize the acids how to restore ipod shuffle 3rd generation prevent the gassing?
In Response to neutralizing Baking Soda will neutralize acid. Furnishing a very rustic cabin. Both are rusted to perfection. How can I seal the rust and maintain it's current appearance and water proof?
I've been through all the threads, and I didn't manage to find any definitive answers on a clearcoat finish on rusted steel. I have an old steel welding bench from the 60's, it's rusted to a perfectly natural almost uniform rust pattern, and I am using it as a counter in my kitchen. Is there a product out there that I can use to simply seal the surface the way it is now thus clearcoating it? Thanks for your help, and for all the info in the threads - very useful indeed Cheers Rich.
Hi, Richard. I suspect the reason you couldn't find a great answer is that there may not be how to clear coat rusted metal :- It's said that a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Here we have a link of steel your welding bench ; then a link of loose, powdery, non-adherent rust.
Then a link of clear coat. And people report that as stress is put on the clear coat, the clear coat pulls off, "taking rust with it". But I suspect that if the rust is quite thin, such that the clearcoat can "wet" it all the way through to where the clear coat can actually grab some sound steel, you may get acceptable adhesion.
Good luck. I have the same problem as the other people. Have a rebar viewing fence with stucco wall at the bottom. It's supposed to be rusty. But the clear coating the fence people used is washing off allowing it to further rust on the stucco, my flagstone patio and the front sidewalk. Need something to seal it with. Hope you can how to clear coat rusted metal. Automotive clearcoat.
Seals the rust without inhibiting the appearance, and the thicker you lay it on, the more what about us the saturdays ft sean paul you are.
If it gets severely scratched, just buff with a little clear coat polish and a buffing cloth. Wow, this is great. I have a set of 's metal garden chairs and had them sand blasted and let them rust to a wonderful color.
You just can't sit on them without getting orange stripes on your clothes. Will try the automotive clear coat. Multiple thin coats, what do cervical biopsies test for one heavy coat? Should I wipe them down first and if so, use what product? Thanks for the great information. Hi, Rose. A couple of thin coats is probably best, but you must brush any loose rust off first.
A chain is as how to unjam your ring finger as it's weakest link. If the rust doesn't adhere to the substrate, it how to get bread to rise in cold weather no good to have the clearcoat adhere to the rust -- it just comes off as a package deal.
Clearcoat is not shrink wrap; it has to adhere to the base steel or to rust that itself has some adhesion For my restaurant in Portland, we formed sheet steel panels to fit our back bar, laid them in the parking lot and sprayed them with Muriatic Acid [affil.
When finished it looked like marble and burled wood--nobody guessed it was rusted steel. We burnished it with fine steel wool [affil. We put a few coats on, as I recall. It was inside and not exposed, but in the 8 years I had the restaurant before I sold it it showed no signs of additional corrosion or breakdown of the poly finish.
Looking at clear powder coated finish for my next project. Regarding using automotive clearcoat to protect a rusted surface and keep the rusty look: I just installed a steel railing around my deck and it is awesome and what are the safest cosmetics to use to rust. I want to protect the rust from coming off, especially onto my guests.
Can I apply automotive clearcoat with a brush? Or do I have to take the panels off and spray them somewhere? And what brand is economical and works well? Hi Marion. Let me first clarify what automotive clearcoat is, in case any readers are confused. It's a "2-component" or "two-part" or "2K" coating material. It is usually polyurethane but it hardens the way epoxy hardens -- in other words it doesn't "dry", it "cures" as the two components react with each other.
You have to mix the two components in the right ratio, and must complete the project before it hardens. There is no reason you can't brush it if you can work quick enough, or do it in several batches.
Use cheap disposable brushes as there is no way to clean them. We don't like to recommend one brand over another, but I'm sure a local automotive store will have it -- just don't talk yourself into a single component clearcoat if you want "automotive clearcoat". I have just completed a coffee table out of mild steel. The top is a sheet of found steel with great textured rust and corrosion. I want to keep this color and texture intact yet be able to have a smooth wipe-able surface.
Dec 13, · Now that the metal is in place some of the finish is coming off and taking the rust with it (rusted look was the desire) Is there a product that we can put over the lacquer that will stand up to abuse (prefer clear coat) or do we have to take off the lacquer before we can put anything else on it. Sep 26, · When clear-coating a rusted surface, all loose material, flash-rust & haze must be wiped down carefully with a lint-free tack-rag. That is the key to getting a good bond between the rusted surface and the top-coat. Another insurance policy for a good bond would be spraying a couple of light coats of adhesion promoter. May 10, · Everbrite makes a great clear coat for rusted metal. Yes, you will have to neutralize any acids before coating. You can use a baking soda water mixture, then RINSE thoroughly. You will want to wait a day for it to thoroughly dry before wiping the surface with a solvent and coating.
World's 1 finishing resource since No login needed: Chime right in. Hello; I see many samples of rusted steel art. The colors vary from bright orange to reddish brown and darker. Why the difference? Would it change over time? Air quality? Thanks; Chris. Dear Sir, I have a challenge. Can we clear coat a sheet metal with little rust on it without remove the rusts? We want to clear coat the parts while keeping the rust on the metal to make it look old.
Is it possible? What is the best way to achieve this? See the entry from Tom D. Good luck. I need to rust 50 ft. Can I soak the chain in a large bucket with vinegar? Should I add salt to it? Soak in muriatic acid? I need to have it done within the week because my electrician is hanging my chandeliers.
Then spray polyurethane on it? I just need to do this for the patina. Hi Donna. Vinegar and other mild acids dissolve steel but they dissolve rust even faster. So immersion in vinegar usually doesn't cause rusting.
Either immerse the chain in bleach, or spritz it with vinegar and salt repeatedly wet it and allow it to dry. Never mix bleach with anything, especially acids like vinegar. Or does it have to be washed off first? OR do any of you have any suggestions on what to use to seal the rust not get rid of it on an old truck? I'm also understanding that if you don't use the vinegar, the rust will continue causing the clear coat to peel and break. Is that correct? Thanks for any help! Baking Soda is a great neutralizer for blackening agents to prevent rust.
Clear Powder Coats turn white in spots and flake over rust. Clear Acrylic or lacquer over rust is fine for indoors but darkens the rust finish severely. Anything subject to UV rays is going to break down quickly and look like peeling skin.
A combination of diluted muriatic acid as a stripper or acid bath starts the rust process nicely and strips scale, followed by several coatings of any brand of patina designed to rust steel. Work quickly and coat with a pump or spray bottle. When it dries, immediately rinse with water, dry and re-apply until you get the desired finish. Don't use paint on finishes they are a joke. Rust never sleeps. Hello, KBS here in Australia and POR15 make clear coatings that supposedly goes over bare steel and the KBS site actually shows the paint being applied over rusty metal; but like anything, you can't make something stick if something in between doesn't allow it to stick so I think there is some pre-treatment always required with any 'paint over rust' scenario ha - hope that makes sense.
I've had no personal experience with either, but I'm sure both do as their makers claim. Hello, I recently rusted some steel sheet metal with muriatic acid and fertilizer. It made some awesome colors and I'm trying to figure a way to lock the rust and the colors in.
I put one coat of finishing wax on them but the rust still flakes off. I've also tried spraying them with clear gloss but think there's probably a better way -- any suggestions would help. Thank you. I am painting on a antique milk can for a client. The Can has some rust and I want to keep that in the background. I will need to clean the can but I am thinking I should clear coat the can before I paint.
I will use acrylic paints and then clear coat again after I'm finished. The paining will accent the can and not cover it completely. A good example of what I want to do is the Picture that Oliver de Gea has posted in this thread. Can you recommend what I should have the can sealed with to hold the look of the rust while allowing me to paint over and then seal again. Thank you for your help! It came out gorgeous! I wish it came in a matte finish but from what I'm reading here it looks like I'm lucky to have found anything at all!
Try Permalaq which also has a UV inhibitor in addition to sealing. We won't need to refinish every year! I haven't tried it myself but have ordered some because it came highly recommended by a metal artist. I would like advise please to spray lacquer on painted metal decorations hanging outside. One will be exposed to rain, the rest undercover. Live near the Gulf. The metals are aluminum, tin, plastic. The snail has lights that I'll tape up? What should I use to protect these finishes, please?
I also have an powder-coated wrought aluminum patio set that went through Katrina. The water stopped before the table top so that's in pretty good condition. The finish flakes off in certain areas.
Any suggestions, please? That's quite a host of questions! But the principle is simply that things need to be clean and free of flaking because paint is not shrinkwrap that holds things together, rather it is like a chain with a weakest link: if there is dirt or flaking paint, it does no good for the new paint to adhere to them because the new paint will simply come off with the dirt or flaking paint.
So wash it all with a stiff scrub brush and detergent water, rinse it, and dry it. If it's rusting steel you will need rust converter before the spray lacquer. I find this thread very useful.
Thank you for all the insight regarding rusted finishes and clear coats; however, I have not found an answer that I can use. I have several old rusted original tin tiles which I plan to use as a backsplash in my kitchen. I know I need to put a clear coat over it especially being in the kitchen. I want to make sure I can wipe it clean with soap and water, nothing else I have included a picture of these tins and hope someone is able to give me step by step instructions on how to do this myself.
I am on a budget but I also want this done right. On a side note if you can tell me the best possible way to attach the tin to the wall and what I need to do between the seams to keep it safe from little fingers getting cut. Thank you so much. I appreciate any insight you can offer. Everbrite makes a great clear coat for rusted metal. Yes, you will have to neutralize any acids before coating.
You will want to wait a day for it to thoroughly dry before wiping the surface with a solvent and coating. More info here: www. We try to minimize testimonials to specific proprietary products in this forum, and it can start a race to the bottom, with vendors posing as satisfied customers which has happened a number of times here. But Everbrite is a supporting advertiser of this site and helps make the forum possible; so we've printed your suggestion and labeled it as an ad.
Thanks again. Hi was wondering if you can help. I am interested in making a wind chime out of horse shoes. I want to paint them and decorate them, and place them outside. I have been looking for a waterproof gloss varnish, for exterior use on metal and can't seem to find one. Would you know of any or have any suggestions for me.
Most kind regards Hannah. Hi Hannah. There are dozens of different potential products for that, and a number of them have been mentioned on this page already.
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